a bit of a dump here just for my own memory. here’s a spot I surfed at twice. the day before this the waves were really big and powerful. this day they were small and so you needed to paddle way harder to catch anything.
Today I swam around for a while at Lisa’s favourite spot. Last time we swam in this spot I was pretty terrified of open water. I’ve managed to overcome that to some degree during this trip.
Today in the same spot as yesterday. Was high tide and absolutely cooking outside. Probably going to go for another swim this afternoon.
Ended up swimming a couple hundred meters in the ocean today after seeing a woman doing laps in this spot. Went back in with my GoPro just to show the swimming spot for those that are curious.
Don't think the camera does a great job of portraying the space here but still cool to get used to trying to document this kind of thing.
Spent two hours surfing this morning. Being in the ocean more has evolved the way I think about my “swimming” practice. Both what it means and what it means to me.
another workout where I’ve had to stop early to accommodate for other people. not about it.